Los Toros

I am sadly no longer in Spain. I arrived back in the old U.S. of A. on Tuesday, and I am currently sitting in the room I grew up in down in Rockdale County, Georgia. Over the next month I will continue to write this blog on Spain and its Cultural and Theatrical practices. It will be easier to write as retrospective of what I experienced because I will not have the distraction of one of the most interesting and stunning country in the western world outside my window. I will miss eating plate after plate of Boquerónes so I hope to return to Spain soon. Yet, first I must finish this blog, work on the play I will be directing in January, and graduate from Hunter in the spring.

Also, this blog is about Bulls and Bullfighting. I am writing as an observer of this controversial and historical cultural practice. I am not promoting the killing of animals, but it has a long and storied history and is a prime example of theatrical spectacle therefore it calls my attention. This blog is rather long so I will post it in two phases. First, on the symbol of the bull and artistic, political, and societal function, and the other will be on the practical and theatric aspect of the Bullfight itself.

The Bull is similar to the American Bald Eagle as its image is omnipresent in Spain. Its blackened outline can be found on T-shirts, bumper stickers, in art, in country fields, on political seals, and statues in town squares everywhere. It is a symbol that joins Spain together. Spain's is a patchwork of autonomous regions that fight to preserve their independent cultures and political beliefs, but the bull as a symbol (as well as Futbol) can be found in all of them. It's impressive and savage form has inspired art from the earliest humans that inhabited this region, as can be seen in the prehistoric cave in Altamira which prominently features cave paintings of bison from over 14,500 years ago. Artist throughout history have immortalized the bullfighting characters. Museums are filled with artist depicting bullfighting and master artist often create the posters for such events. The bull is also an influence in politics, as Bullfighting has been declared illegal in Catalonia. It can be argued that it being declared illegal was not only to stop the killing of bulls, but also as a symbolic gesture by Catalonia of distancing itself from the political center of Madrid. King Juan Carlos himself has stated that the day the EU declares bullfighting illegal is the day Spain leaves the EU. El Toro is a powerful image of tradition, but it is also a figure of rebellion that keeps artist returning to it.

The bull runs is the coming out parties for the bulls. To see the bulls one must go to this event that often circle around religious or seasonal holidays and festivals. I was very excited to see my first bull because it is part of the popular image of Spain. What I discovered from the top rail of a Bull Run fence was that it is primarily a publicly funded party. Which is crazy to me because the local government is sponsoring a festival that not only features a potentially deadly activity, but it also promotes questionable treatment of animals. Bull runs originated as a fast way to usher the bulls to the bull rings for the days later fight, but this would turn into a popular party with hundreds of rather drunk men and some woman staying up till extremely early hours to take part in the run. It shows Spain’s desire to enjoy life and its willingness to risk it at the end of a bull’s horn. I am not sure what would happen if the government decided to cut the Bull Run from the budget, probably a large protest.

The Bullfight is a separate mater. It is in no way the most popular activity in Spain. It seemed to me all Spaniards have an opinion about it. In the mainly theatrical crowds I was hanging out with they seemed annoyed that it is a popular image of Spain. Nearly 100,000 bulls are killed annually in Bullfights, and this blood filled sport is a point of great debate. Tradition is central to the argument to not stop bullfighting but a large population seem to be fanatic about it. Matadors are celebrities, bull fighting gets a large section of the sports section and it is shown on TV (I believe it is illegal to show a live bullfight though). In the bullfight that I attended the stadium was half empty, but all that attended seemed to love it and the tickets are not cheep (I got a nosebleed seat in a small town and I still paid 15 euros). Bullfighting seems to have some government support likely with the creation of the bull rings (which almost every town has), but it also seems like a private sector event much more than the bull runs which pulls all of its funding from local governments.  

The bull with it strength, beauty, unbridled emotions, and deadly horns it is a fitting symbol for this rugged and conflicted country. It is an inspiration and debate all in one. The people of Spain are often divided by the treatment and celebration of this animal. Argue politics in Spain is very popular, and the bull is a very tangible symbol to make pointed arguments about. To sit and argue over drinks about this storied tradition is part of the legend of El Toro.

I will post part two in a day or two I promise.

¿Donde esta el Teatro?

I have been all over the place literally and mentally over the last month, so sorry for not posting anything in that time. Yet I can tell you I have been working, and learning a lot about European theatre. I have also been attending the current theatre and art scene happing in Madrid, and learning about how a theatre company functions and how it collaborates with the community in Spain. I have also been traveling all over this marvelous country. I also have a date that I will be returning to the US :^( After its all said and done I will spend thirteen weeks in Spain a relative drop in the bucket, but something I will take with me for a long time. As I have gotten completely off track on these blogs I figure I will write a total of thirteen blogs, so between now and the end of November I will write six more blogs of about five hundred words each. In addition I will also post three play reviews, and I will have one large final paper. So "hold on to your butts!"

To bring you up-to-date I have spent the last seven weeks working at Teatro Tyl Tyl. It is a Children's Theatre south of Madrid in the quite town of Navalcarnero. Tyl Tyl has been creating plays for children since 1984 under the direction of Daniel Lovecchio. What has left the biggest impression on me thus far is the outreach of the theatre. It only has a staff of nine hardworking Spaniards, yet it produces a ten month season of performances. The theatre has created over forty original works since 1984, and has roughly 30,000 people visit a year. It also travels Europe and the world with performances, and produces a literary division of books and magazines on children’s theatre, and on top of that also runs a performance school for children. My first day at the theatre I took in the company’s organizational meeting were the scope of this year work was discussed. I was overwhelmed when I heard all the plans for the year, but I was even more shocked that I was the only one overwhelmed. Almost the whole staff has been apart of Tyl Tyl for a long time so the scale of the work is normal to them. What also surprised me was the theatre also has plans to expand and diversify.  For exsample, what I have been doing working on mainly is working on bring a Tyl Tyl production to the states by applying to children’s theatre festivals in the US, and Cananda. I am blown away with the amount of work this company does, but what sets it apart in my mind is professional atmosphere and the quality of the work. It is innovative and creative work that goes into these productions for children.

I will write more on what I have discovered on Children’s theatre in another blog. Here I want to compare a little of how theatre is done in the US compared to Spain. To do this I will make a small comparison of theatre in Navalcarnero, Spain and that of Conyers, Georgia as I know the two well and comparisons of apples and oranges can yield bananas.

Both towns have a population that is about 16,000 people, and both have major cities with roughly six million people each within a thirty minute drive. Theatre as I know it in Conyers happens roughly on two levels high school and community. High school theatre one could argue is supported from the community as the high schools are publicly funded. In Conyers for example there are three high schools, and each got a state-of-the-art theatre built in 2000. While community theatre is largely made up of people of the local area that form a non-profit, and put on shows usually drawing from private funding, donations, and perhaps some public funds. I will call it armature only because the work is usually unpaid. If they do pay it is the top people of the organization, and it is a pence. Conyers has the Rockdale Council of the Arts that performs in a hundred seat black box purchased in 1995 after a donation to the group. Navalcarnero has Teatro Tyl Tyl which is a professional children’s theatre that is also a non-profit group supported by various governmental groups, and some sponsors. It is a professional group meaning all workers and actors are employees and collect an income. Navalcarnero also has another theatre Teatro Centros which I know less about, but I understand it is also a professional theatre that is mainly funded from the city of Navalcarnero itself. Navalcarnero also puts on cultural weeks with large musical and dance performances and even runs bulls. Yet from what I understand there is little support in the high schools for theatre or other arts. The quality of I hesitate to judge because it is hard to compare professionals with students. Were I think their is an interesting comparison is the amount of audiences members Each town brings in. Navalcarnero must dwarfs Conyers as the cultural week alone brings in more people in a week than a two year stretch of the Rockdale Council of the Arts and the high schools combined. Yet with the high schools of Conyers the children really get a chance to perform and get interested in the arts. Were maybe ther’re students in Spain that get less opportunity?

Bulls will be coming soon......

Pasion

            It was hot. Not yet dusk, the sun burned us softly with its last rays as it fought a losing battle with the horizon. It was a good Spanish sun, and its passion would lead us to the hurly burly of another heat - a night in Madrid. We were worn by the sun, and the crowd we came upon seemed out of a dream. I stood among the crowd of people, people different than me, people of note, dressed in clothes that showed they were ready for the cameras. Not ready myself I wore only a plan shirt it was a good shirt, a favorite shirt but plain, and it was not to be noticed among the flash of the crowd, this crowd of somebodies. I asked her who these people were and why so dressed.

“Important People” she said

“What kind of important”

“People that want to be seen at an opening night”.

My head was hurting as I had only some chorizo and coffee in my stomach, and the flashbulbs seem to weigh on my head.

“Passion” she said “tonight was about su pasion”,

“What”

“The passion of flamenco tonight you will see” she whispered

            We stepped through the crowd to the bar, a drink seem the only medicine for my confused and painful stomach. We stood at the sleek white bar; the bar seemed of the future, and I pondered if we were at a theatre or a shuttle launch as more camera lights flashed. The silent bartender gave us our drinks cold and fast; it calmed me and brought a smile to her face and we laughed at the dressed up somebodyies. The sun was still fighting as light poured in through the window and as it crossed her face she told me about the Pasion of flamenco.

“Flamenco is alive in Spain” she said “look at these people, those two are toreros”

“Matadors?”

“Si, and those people are on television and that person writes for a newspaper”

“Oh” I said feeling out of place in my plain shirt. “Why tonight”

“It’s September” she said “We came to the first night of a new Flamenco”

We drank our drinks and waited for the doors to open. We finished then fought back through the crowd; we came to the doors of theatre I noticed the building we were in. It was an impressive place new and streamlined like a boat waiting for its first sail.

“Its Teatro del Canal” she told me “One of the newest venues in Madrid if you like it we will see more shows as this is the beginning of the season”

“Good I would like that, only Flamenco?”

“No a whole season plays and concerts”

I liked Madrid; it was an old city but fresh. Art, food, and politics were the constant chanter of the locals as they stayed awake all hours in the street. People like to enjoy life in the center of this complicated country, and this theatre was another reason to enjoy the hot nights in Madrid. It was a temple to live performance.

We found our seats, they were good, better than the toreros, and we laughed as the people of note were hobnobbing around the theatre and taking seats behind us.

“Remember the Goya painting at the Prado the one of the Duchess” she said

“No” I said

“I knew you were not really looking”

“I was, but not at art”

“The Duchess of Alba” she told me “there is a painting by Goya of her and that is what this Flamenco is about”

            We stopped talking the theatre grew dark and the people of note began to quite as well when the curtain opened. It was a nice curtain I always loved curtains because every time one opened something different was behind waiting to get out. With the lights dimming the sound system cranked up. Spain as it seemed loved the technical end of performance, and hearing every pin drop on stage was common. I would be a sound engineer in Spain if I were smarter then I would always work.

The Flamenco began two dancers, three singers, and a collection of Spanish guitars began this traditional yet provocative performance. My body seemed attacked by the raw voice of the Flamenco singer, it was a strong voice, and it wailed with the feeling of a Middle Eastern prayer. The voice sang not for the purest of western classical music, but for the lovers of passion, a passion beyond the body. In it one could hear not one culture but the blend that is Spain. While the voice churned with the support of Spanish guitars the dance began.

A large man and a woman held each other tight and danced. It was not a furry of movements but a lover’s discourse as the stage lights flared. The two danced to the wails of the flamenco singer and guitar while the rhythm began to fill the air. It was the heels of these dancers that worked for the love of the crowd, and I was drawn in by the hypnotic rhythm of the heels. A smiled pour across my face as heard and saw the rhythm; it was a simple but pleased smile. The rhythm brought me around the world as it was a familiar rhythm a rhythm of local dances of the common people. I thought of my hot Georgia sun and it legions local cloggers, or the streets of New York with tap dancers trying to earn your change. My grandmother’s Irish step dances and I new this dance this Flamenco was not for the elites that sat around us, but rather it was a dance for the common man the workers. The passion I was seeing before me was for the stage but also for the local hangouts throughout Spain.

The dance evolved and others joined more dancers and singers came and they were all nice and performed well and deserved the applause we gave them. They danced again after our applause; Flamenco feeds off the crowd, the more we clapped the more they danced. The two of us headed out to eat and enjoy another drink. Walking away from the theatre away from people of note and their cameras we missed the sun. We stopped at a decent restaurant with a small terraza, and the waiter with a thick bead but little hair made us two Claras. A beer mixed with lemonade that helps take the poor taste out of Spanish beer.

“She lacked passion he had it” she declared “She tried to make the show about her and forgot why you dance Flamenco”

The woman of the performance was the virtuoso, the dance was about her. She was the primary dancer, choreographer, and director and he was a famous flamenco dancer much older and openly bisexual.

“I thought she was ok, but he was better”

 “All her passion was a fake smile, but did you see Antonio Canales that is flamenco.”

We ate and talked for two hours. We discussed flamenco and Spain; I mentioned movies and plays she talked about politics and novels. She told me the current duchess of Alba was very old and is marrying a man half her age, and it was a scandal. Flamenco it was decided was about the passion of the moment, one could dance it but if they did not feel it than it was not Flamenco. The moon was high now a moon of taste and glowing brightly, and we walked home under its glow. With the rhythm and passion controlling our thoughts.

PS
I have seen the bulls, and i'm in the thrust if my internship i will write on both soon.

Septiembre

Sorry I skipped a week of blog writing. I know you have been frustrated, lo siento mucho. I started writing last week’s blog and it felt bad. It was not interesting or informative. I tried to work on it, and the next thing I knew I was on to the next week. Don’t threat I will write an extra blog this week on a performance I attend last week at the Teatros del Canal. There are currently a lot of things to write about and to look forward to as September is finally here.

Spain is coming alive before my eyes. I am not sure if you know this, but Spain goes on vacation for the month of August. Madrid particularly empties out, and all the people that are left want to be on vacation too. It’s an interesting cultural aspect of Spanish life, this idea of taking a break. It is so foreign to someone who has been living New York for six years, but Siestas really do happen. People take long breaks for lunch from around 2:30 to 4:30 or 5:00 at least during August. One might think Spaniards work less, but they often pull in forty hour work weeks similar to most American, but they just break up those hours by not working. Would it make life in New York a little easier if you could go home on your lunch break, or even take a nap? I digress but I am jealous because I remeber my TV days when I had fifteen minute lunches. I think things are going to change a little bit now that September is here though. Most people are back, and everything will get started soon. School will begin, the play season will get underway, and those same vacationing Spaniards are going to get back to work. The lunches might get a touch shorter as the city starts to sake off the dog days, and I can’t wait to be apart of it! Labor Day is tomorrow, and with it the end of summer so I will see this city change as the season turns. Sad I know, but fall is undoubtedly my favorite season so goodbye summer sunburns and hello postseason baseball.

I will be living in Madrid and interning in the town of Navalcarnero over the next few months. With September apon us it means that I have been in Spain just over a month. This is great because I have finally started settling in. Now that I have been here a bit I am beginning to discover what I should see and do in the short months that I have left. Over the next month I will attend Spanish langue course (and god I need them) and go to plays and events. I will kill the night with the infamous Madrid nightlife as well as put my nose into some of the great museums in the world. This is me rough planning the second half of my Spanish experience. If you have any input as what I should do, see, or eat write a comment and I will try to work it in unless I think your full of shit.

So here are the next two blogs to look forward to.

Wednesday the 7^th, Flamenco the Spanish dance with Antonio Canales.

Monday the 12^th, Bulls Bulls Bulls They fight bulls on Sunday so you will have to wait.

After that I plan on writing a blog about Spain’s Fascist ruler Franco. I will visit his grave that is just up the highway you can’t miss it. I will be doing a lot of writing on Theatre and Teatro Tyl Tyl. Look at the practical theatrical practices to the cultivation of theatre here in modern Spain. I am lucky because I will be working with theatre professional everyday at my internship. I will be getting their input as I try to answer question like how one becomes a Spanish working actor or what theatrical job opportunities are available in Spain. I will also go to a classical Spanish theatre performance of the Golden Age, and look at some of the greatest Spanish playwrights from Seneca to Lorca. Outside of Theatre I will travel to Andalucia in early October and Head north to the Basque Country (a man has to eat). If I can find the time I might do something very Spanish and leave Spain to go to Italy, France, or England. We will see.

PS

 If some one could mail me the Brockett it would help. Theatre history books in English are hard to come by. I am also sorry, but I missed La Tomatina the tomato-throwing festival in Bunol. There are always reasons to come back to Spain here is a ling to the carnage.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aeK16h_Ip-U

Fe

Toledo:

A mountain city with a river valley below, an hour south of Madrid in central Spain

Is the capital of Castilla-La Mancha community

Population of 82,409

Speaks Castilian

Castilla-La Mancha has an area of 30,680 square miles just smaller than South Carolina our 40^th largest state

The Pope or Papa

Big “Papa” is holding the World Youth Festival here in Madrid in hopes of bring more young people to Sunday mass. In honor of the Pope and the thousands of his fans who spent last the week hanging out in downtown Madrid. I decided to take a look at the faiths that have defined Spain. Spain spread Christianity throughout the new world and is still mainly Catholic as 71% of Spaniards stating it as their faith, but that is down 10% according to the BBC. So I went on a personal crusade to the holy city of Toledo to discover more about Spain’s Faithful.




Part of the wall

 

The sense of holy cannot be overstated; this sense or feeling is felt throughout Toledo. It is a majestic city worthy of praise. It Sits on the top of a hill that feels like a mountain, and peers over a stunning river valley. The word storybook comes to mind as you wonder the labyrinths of winding streets. It’s easy to understand why people were drawn to this place. Why the Visigoths would make it their capital; the Moors a center of art and learning, and the Vatican would recognize it as the seat of the Spanish church. Its structures hail from mix origins creating a feeling of Arabia. This also is added by the mixing of religious cultures that gives it a holy aura like Jerusalem, but in the middle of Spain.

Faith dominates the skyline with steeples on almost every corner. These holy building were built by people of many faiths Christians, Jews, and Muslims all practiced on these sacred streets. It what is not the geographic center, but certainly the Center of town stands Catedral de Toledo. Where this large medieval cathedral stands is the historic religious center of Toledo. The Visigoth church stood on this spot which was converted into the central Mosque during Moorish rule, but it was destroyed in 1085 when the Castilla kingdom took Toledo. The structure that stands there now was built in 1227, and it is a monument to the Catholic faith. The inside is covered in stunning gold and wood reliefs, and it has hall after hall of masterwork art commissioned by the church. This building is a microcosm of Toledo. It rest on hollow ground, but not just for the Catholics that worship there now. It was also for the Islamic that ruled Spain for nearly 800 years. The Mosque destroyed, and replaced by an overwhelming structure of Catholic might.

Mezquita Cristo de la Luz a little church

To view the stunning Synagogues and Mosques that do remain I found myself donating euros to the Catholic Church. All of the historic sights of Judaism and Islam were converted to Christian Churches, museums, or commercial structures. This is mainly due to the Spanish Inquisition From 1478 through 1834. It was from this time most of these buildings became unused, therefore they too became centers for Catholicism.



The Inquisition changed Toledo and all of Spain. It is an ugly large chapter in Spanish History; Toledo is a tragic reminder of its bigotry. In Toledo as in all over Spain people of other faiths were forced to convert to Catholicism (among other horrors) to later be expelled from Spain altogether. This would strip Spain of a prominent middle class, and cultural diversity.

Toledo fell to the northern Christian kingdom of Castilla in 1085. This means that Muslims, Jews, and Christians lived together in Toledo for almost 400 years with some form of harmony before the Inquisition. Yet, with Jews, Muslims, Heretics, and Lutherans all gone from Toledo the city is an empty shell of its former self. Its all to apparent when you walk into the reaming Mosques and Synagogues converted for Catholic mass. It’s a sad reminder of the hate and bigotry of this tragic part of Spain’s history.



Faith is a powerful thing as seen from the Inquisition it can produce horrors, but it can also inspire. We owe some of the greatest artistic creation to faith as it inspires people to reach beyond themselves. Throughout Toledo this is the case as the paintings by El Greco (who lived in Toledo) are showcased. In his works it’s easy to see how his faith inspired his work, but also created a living for him. This kind of awe inspiring work is seen in all three religions of Toledo. No matter the faith people were creating in celebration of there faith.



Me Podering Religion and looking at a tree

            I am not sure if Papa will bring more people into the fold this week. A lot of his faithful went to Toledo to take in the Center of Spanish Religion. I am sure they were excited to see the glories of Toledo. Yet if big Papa wants me to convert he would help a bother out, and not charge as much to see the glories of the Faith. I went to two Synagogues, one Mosque, and two cathedrals (all catholic) I had to pay 19 euros!!! The museum which was lovely was free. I will take the art any day less guilt and cheaper how can faith compete?



Roma

Merida:

A river city in the far western part of Spain.

It is the capital of the Extremadura community

Population of 56,000

Speaks Castilian

Extremadura has an area roughly 41,600 square km or just bigger than Maryland and Delaware combined (Maryland the 42^nd largest state and Delaware the 49^th respectivly)

Its High while I was there - 41 degrees Celsius (105 F) and I have the sun burn to prove it

For the Record:

Spain has an area of 195,364 square miles which puts it between California and Texas our 3^rd and 2^nd largest states. Its population is about 46,000,000 as our California has about 37,000,000 people. Castilian is another name for the Spanish language, and Spain is located on the Iberian Peninsula the farthest stretch West on the European continent. Also at this point I have traveled 2184 km (1360 miles) back and forth from Madrid.

History will often give great incite into the societal norms and traditional practices of a society. In my second week in Spain I have explored the ancient city of Merida. This city is stooped in history of one of the most influetal societys that has defined the Iberian Peninsula. The structural and cultural remains of this group paints a complicated and exciting story that speaks of the Spain that I am visiting today.

The classical theatre festival in Merida would give me not only a look a

t some of the finest theatre performers in Spain, but also a real look at the lives of one of Spain’s first conquerors - Rome. The Romans ruled what is now modern day Spain and Portugal for almost 600 years. Inherently most of Spain (and Europe) would adapt to the Roman way of life. Rome would give “Hispania” entertainments like Gladiators, Chariot races, and create theatres, roads, and aqueducts systems. Its influence would lend to languages spoken and religions practiced. This can all be seen in the city of Merida or “Augusta Emerita” as it was called during Rome’s rule. As it was one of the most important colonies in Hispania.

The amount of Roman ruins is unparalleled in Merida. The most breathtaking of which are the entertainment buildings, and specifically the Roman Theatre. This structure is almost completely intact, built by the consul of Merida in between 16 and 15 B.C. The consul also would build in 8 B.C. an Amphitheatre for gladiatorial sport and just a few years later a Roman Circus to hold chariot races. As I walked through these structures I became aware of the love of entertainment embraced by these Roman/Spanish communities. The scale of

these buildings is overwhelming. By far the smallest, the theatre could hold up to 6000 people, in comparison The Metropolitan Opera house holds 3,800. What also fascinated me was walking into the gladiator’s arena of the Amphitheatre. It gave me an immediate connection to bull fights that happen in Spain today. While I don’t know if bull fights stem from Roman times (it’s a subject for future blog) it is powerful to know that people have been fighting animals for entertainment in Spain for thousands of years. These buildings showed me that the people of Spain have been practicing professional entertainment of a grand scale for thousands of years. That my personal profession is as old as the rock I was standing on.

Merida is a town with Roman ruins or buildings on almost every corner. What would connect most of these buildings was the amount of art and mosaics at each site. The sure amount of art depicting gods, myths, or daily lives means several things. Art clearly was highly valued as it was on most structures. It also seemed that the works had different levels of skill as the most ornate pieces were on the largest villas, or on public works built to idealize the Roman way of life. The amount of works also means that artist and artisans were working a lot in Hispania. I don’t know if the artist had guilds in Hispania or if the works were imported from else were, but it showed that people living in Hispania were valuing art. At least as early as the Roman rule people of Spain were seeing and perhaps creating art.

Merida would showcase its Roman roots in an all out theatre festival. Since 1933 Merida has been using its glorious Roman theatre over the months of July and August to bring classic theatre to the masses. I am not sure why it happens in the middle of the hottest months of the year, but I would venture to guess it has something to do with JULIus and AUGUSTus (I am still getting over a sunburn). The Festival would demonstrate not only the amazing use of the Roman theatre, but also the citizens overwhelming excitement to create and appreciate art. In this rather small city which is not the easiest to get to (closest airports being Seville 100 miles away) some of the greatest theatre professionals came to work on this epic stage. Also the audience was packed, there must have been three thousand people sitting on hard stone to take in an epic Greek tale for two hours from 11:00pm to 1:00am. For a theatre nerd I understood why I was there, but the other 2,999? It could be the appreciation of ancestral roots and a culture that indulges in the arts. I also think it was because this stage demands the greatest efforts of the performers, and the audience knows this. The audiences wants to see its best in such an epic space. Every stage demands the best, but this space with its grand scale and overwhelming history is only effective if used with great care. It would swallow alive anyone who walked on without knowing what to do.

The city of Merida gave me an understanding of one of the most interesting influences on Spanish society the Roman Empire. These Romans brought with them to Spain a culture that liked entertainment and art. It gave the communities it conquered there practices and apprecitions. To look at a building and a date, and know that theatre practices have been occurring for thousands of years on the Iberian Peninsula is thrilling. While Rome is not the first group to come to Spain or the last it certainly had a hand in this county’s appreciation and creation of art.

..

PS

 I have to say that I am not a history major or an art major. I also do not pretend to be an expert on Spanish or European history. My knowledge of history is mainly American which is a country about as old as some small trees in Spain. I have spent two weeks in this very complicated country. Therefore my observations are that of outsider looking at big brush strokes to piece together this very interesting culture. For the entirety of my time spent in Spain I will be looking for historical reference to support my observations. I will grow with more understanding and knowledge, and I also don’t want to assume that you have any knowledge of Spain because before two weeks ago I had virtually none.

It was so cool seeing that stage played for an audience, and it was surreal to see Antigone by Sophocles a Greek play on a Roman Stage performed in Spanish with modern lighting and sound from 21st century - crazy. Oh, and it is clearly a Roman theatre compared to Helenistic and Greek theatre. I think it could have had a three tiered facade (only two remain), and very small chorus area with a very tall and wide stage (take that “B” in World Theatre I). The Jamon is really good in Merida!!! I am having a blast!!! Next week real pictures.

Kevin

Jardin De Arte

Barcelona:

Capital of Catalonia

Far Eastern city in the north part of Spain, a Costal town on the Mediterranean

Population: 1.62 million with roughly 6.2 million visitors a year.

Speaks Catalan and Spanish

Catalonia is roughly the size of the state of Maryland.

Barcelona is Spain’s second largest city after Madrid.

To go to Barcelona is to experience a European city of cultural wealth, and historical and political importance. It’s a city for the world, and I only spent four days exploring it. Anything that I will say about the city can only be skin deep. But Barcelona allowed me to begin scratching the surface of the political, historical, and cultural environment of Spain. What I will really take away form this first trip to Barcelona was the importance of art and creativity in the city, and how Barcelona cultivates artists.

During my four days I would be captivated by Gaudi’s work. I visited three of his sights La Sagrada Familla, La Pedrera, and Park Guell and I also took in the facade of Casa Batllo. There are even more works by Gaudi scattered around Barcelona and his modernista contemporaries that give Barcelona a motif of inspiration. The structures of Gaudi inspire thought and wonder even if you hate them. They are not paintings behind museum walls that need explanation, they are buildings that people live in, stroll in, or worship in . Structures that anyone can enjoy, but they are fantastical.

My first day, I walked into the hall of Guidi’s La Sagrada Familla, and my life is now different. It filled my mind with memories of my first trip to New York when I was 14. I was changed by the grandeur of Grand Central Station’s Main Concourse. It might sound silly, but as a country boy I had not seen anything like it. Its ceiling still fills me with wonder and hope today. These kinds of experiences, of seeing master works by artist, artisans, or architects are experiences reminiscent of the first time one sees the ocean. An experience where you forget yourself and all you can do is bask in all the wonders of the world. It makes me smile a smile that will never leave me.

It is not surprising to discover that other master artists lived and created in such an inspirational enviorment. I would visit several museums while I was there notably the Muesu Picasso, Museu Nacional d’art de Catalunya, and the Fudacio Joan Miro. What I would take from theses experiences was not only seeing master works, but also how Barcelona appreciates artist. It strives to cultivate their work by showcasing them in institutions that display almost entirely works from Catalonian artist, or pieces produced in Catalina. In Barcelona you have a city that boost its wonderful inspiring works, and promotes the creative impulses of its citizens. It creates a wonderful dichotomy of bring people to art that creates new art from within.

These observations would prove interesting when I would see two plays on my stay in Barcelona. The theatre season does not get in full swing till September when Spaniards return from Holiday. August it seemed is a time for new theatre works to be produced. Both shows were in small black box theatres, but they were packed with locals of all ages. These shows featured Catalan artist, and one was in Catalan the other was mainly music driven. What I was stunned by besides the packed houses, was the publicity. Each show had ads in the metro stations and around town. I got affordable tickets using the Catalan cultural center. It was simple and professional. It made going to the theatre a easy and invigoration activity. These new artist had a captive audience to appreciate there efforts

In four day I simply became familiar with a very large and complicated city, but it showed me art is very much in the conscious of Catalan culture. Barcelona creates an environment to easily access art making it accessible to the masses. Anyone can venture into one of the many museums, or walk by one of Guadi's master works. This attitude brings life to the city, and keeps people coming back. I believe this ultimately leads to economic growth and social development. I hope to do more research if government or private funding plays a role in the art development in Catatlan. I also have to make a return trip to see La Sagrada Famila before I Leave Spain.  

PS I will have my own pictures later my camera broken (whap whap)