Los Toros

I am sadly no longer in Spain. I arrived back in the old U.S. of A. on Tuesday, and I am currently sitting in the room I grew up in down in Rockdale County, Georgia. Over the next month I will continue to write this blog on Spain and its Cultural and Theatrical practices. It will be easier to write as retrospective of what I experienced because I will not have the distraction of one of the most interesting and stunning country in the western world outside my window. I will miss eating plate after plate of Boquerónes so I hope to return to Spain soon. Yet, first I must finish this blog, work on the play I will be directing in January, and graduate from Hunter in the spring.

Also, this blog is about Bulls and Bullfighting. I am writing as an observer of this controversial and historical cultural practice. I am not promoting the killing of animals, but it has a long and storied history and is a prime example of theatrical spectacle therefore it calls my attention. This blog is rather long so I will post it in two phases. First, on the symbol of the bull and artistic, political, and societal function, and the other will be on the practical and theatric aspect of the Bullfight itself.

The Bull is similar to the American Bald Eagle as its image is omnipresent in Spain. Its blackened outline can be found on T-shirts, bumper stickers, in art, in country fields, on political seals, and statues in town squares everywhere. It is a symbol that joins Spain together. Spain's is a patchwork of autonomous regions that fight to preserve their independent cultures and political beliefs, but the bull as a symbol (as well as Futbol) can be found in all of them. It's impressive and savage form has inspired art from the earliest humans that inhabited this region, as can be seen in the prehistoric cave in Altamira which prominently features cave paintings of bison from over 14,500 years ago. Artist throughout history have immortalized the bullfighting characters. Museums are filled with artist depicting bullfighting and master artist often create the posters for such events. The bull is also an influence in politics, as Bullfighting has been declared illegal in Catalonia. It can be argued that it being declared illegal was not only to stop the killing of bulls, but also as a symbolic gesture by Catalonia of distancing itself from the political center of Madrid. King Juan Carlos himself has stated that the day the EU declares bullfighting illegal is the day Spain leaves the EU. El Toro is a powerful image of tradition, but it is also a figure of rebellion that keeps artist returning to it.

The bull runs is the coming out parties for the bulls. To see the bulls one must go to this event that often circle around religious or seasonal holidays and festivals. I was very excited to see my first bull because it is part of the popular image of Spain. What I discovered from the top rail of a Bull Run fence was that it is primarily a publicly funded party. Which is crazy to me because the local government is sponsoring a festival that not only features a potentially deadly activity, but it also promotes questionable treatment of animals. Bull runs originated as a fast way to usher the bulls to the bull rings for the days later fight, but this would turn into a popular party with hundreds of rather drunk men and some woman staying up till extremely early hours to take part in the run. It shows Spain’s desire to enjoy life and its willingness to risk it at the end of a bull’s horn. I am not sure what would happen if the government decided to cut the Bull Run from the budget, probably a large protest.

The Bullfight is a separate mater. It is in no way the most popular activity in Spain. It seemed to me all Spaniards have an opinion about it. In the mainly theatrical crowds I was hanging out with they seemed annoyed that it is a popular image of Spain. Nearly 100,000 bulls are killed annually in Bullfights, and this blood filled sport is a point of great debate. Tradition is central to the argument to not stop bullfighting but a large population seem to be fanatic about it. Matadors are celebrities, bull fighting gets a large section of the sports section and it is shown on TV (I believe it is illegal to show a live bullfight though). In the bullfight that I attended the stadium was half empty, but all that attended seemed to love it and the tickets are not cheep (I got a nosebleed seat in a small town and I still paid 15 euros). Bullfighting seems to have some government support likely with the creation of the bull rings (which almost every town has), but it also seems like a private sector event much more than the bull runs which pulls all of its funding from local governments.  

The bull with it strength, beauty, unbridled emotions, and deadly horns it is a fitting symbol for this rugged and conflicted country. It is an inspiration and debate all in one. The people of Spain are often divided by the treatment and celebration of this animal. Argue politics in Spain is very popular, and the bull is a very tangible symbol to make pointed arguments about. To sit and argue over drinks about this storied tradition is part of the legend of El Toro.

I will post part two in a day or two I promise.