Fe

Toledo:

A mountain city with a river valley below, an hour south of Madrid in central Spain

Is the capital of Castilla-La Mancha community

Population of 82,409

Speaks Castilian

Castilla-La Mancha has an area of 30,680 square miles just smaller than South Carolina our 40^th largest state

The Pope or Papa

Big “Papa” is holding the World Youth Festival here in Madrid in hopes of bring more young people to Sunday mass. In honor of the Pope and the thousands of his fans who spent last the week hanging out in downtown Madrid. I decided to take a look at the faiths that have defined Spain. Spain spread Christianity throughout the new world and is still mainly Catholic as 71% of Spaniards stating it as their faith, but that is down 10% according to the BBC. So I went on a personal crusade to the holy city of Toledo to discover more about Spain’s Faithful.




Part of the wall

 

The sense of holy cannot be overstated; this sense or feeling is felt throughout Toledo. It is a majestic city worthy of praise. It Sits on the top of a hill that feels like a mountain, and peers over a stunning river valley. The word storybook comes to mind as you wonder the labyrinths of winding streets. It’s easy to understand why people were drawn to this place. Why the Visigoths would make it their capital; the Moors a center of art and learning, and the Vatican would recognize it as the seat of the Spanish church. Its structures hail from mix origins creating a feeling of Arabia. This also is added by the mixing of religious cultures that gives it a holy aura like Jerusalem, but in the middle of Spain.

Faith dominates the skyline with steeples on almost every corner. These holy building were built by people of many faiths Christians, Jews, and Muslims all practiced on these sacred streets. It what is not the geographic center, but certainly the Center of town stands Catedral de Toledo. Where this large medieval cathedral stands is the historic religious center of Toledo. The Visigoth church stood on this spot which was converted into the central Mosque during Moorish rule, but it was destroyed in 1085 when the Castilla kingdom took Toledo. The structure that stands there now was built in 1227, and it is a monument to the Catholic faith. The inside is covered in stunning gold and wood reliefs, and it has hall after hall of masterwork art commissioned by the church. This building is a microcosm of Toledo. It rest on hollow ground, but not just for the Catholics that worship there now. It was also for the Islamic that ruled Spain for nearly 800 years. The Mosque destroyed, and replaced by an overwhelming structure of Catholic might.

Mezquita Cristo de la Luz a little church

To view the stunning Synagogues and Mosques that do remain I found myself donating euros to the Catholic Church. All of the historic sights of Judaism and Islam were converted to Christian Churches, museums, or commercial structures. This is mainly due to the Spanish Inquisition From 1478 through 1834. It was from this time most of these buildings became unused, therefore they too became centers for Catholicism.



The Inquisition changed Toledo and all of Spain. It is an ugly large chapter in Spanish History; Toledo is a tragic reminder of its bigotry. In Toledo as in all over Spain people of other faiths were forced to convert to Catholicism (among other horrors) to later be expelled from Spain altogether. This would strip Spain of a prominent middle class, and cultural diversity.

Toledo fell to the northern Christian kingdom of Castilla in 1085. This means that Muslims, Jews, and Christians lived together in Toledo for almost 400 years with some form of harmony before the Inquisition. Yet, with Jews, Muslims, Heretics, and Lutherans all gone from Toledo the city is an empty shell of its former self. Its all to apparent when you walk into the reaming Mosques and Synagogues converted for Catholic mass. It’s a sad reminder of the hate and bigotry of this tragic part of Spain’s history.



Faith is a powerful thing as seen from the Inquisition it can produce horrors, but it can also inspire. We owe some of the greatest artistic creation to faith as it inspires people to reach beyond themselves. Throughout Toledo this is the case as the paintings by El Greco (who lived in Toledo) are showcased. In his works it’s easy to see how his faith inspired his work, but also created a living for him. This kind of awe inspiring work is seen in all three religions of Toledo. No matter the faith people were creating in celebration of there faith.



Me Podering Religion and looking at a tree

            I am not sure if Papa will bring more people into the fold this week. A lot of his faithful went to Toledo to take in the Center of Spanish Religion. I am sure they were excited to see the glories of Toledo. Yet if big Papa wants me to convert he would help a bother out, and not charge as much to see the glories of the Faith. I went to two Synagogues, one Mosque, and two cathedrals (all catholic) I had to pay 19 euros!!! The museum which was lovely was free. I will take the art any day less guilt and cheaper how can faith compete?



Roma

Merida:

A river city in the far western part of Spain.

It is the capital of the Extremadura community

Population of 56,000

Speaks Castilian

Extremadura has an area roughly 41,600 square km or just bigger than Maryland and Delaware combined (Maryland the 42^nd largest state and Delaware the 49^th respectivly)

Its High while I was there - 41 degrees Celsius (105 F) and I have the sun burn to prove it

For the Record:

Spain has an area of 195,364 square miles which puts it between California and Texas our 3^rd and 2^nd largest states. Its population is about 46,000,000 as our California has about 37,000,000 people. Castilian is another name for the Spanish language, and Spain is located on the Iberian Peninsula the farthest stretch West on the European continent. Also at this point I have traveled 2184 km (1360 miles) back and forth from Madrid.

History will often give great incite into the societal norms and traditional practices of a society. In my second week in Spain I have explored the ancient city of Merida. This city is stooped in history of one of the most influetal societys that has defined the Iberian Peninsula. The structural and cultural remains of this group paints a complicated and exciting story that speaks of the Spain that I am visiting today.

The classical theatre festival in Merida would give me not only a look a

t some of the finest theatre performers in Spain, but also a real look at the lives of one of Spain’s first conquerors - Rome. The Romans ruled what is now modern day Spain and Portugal for almost 600 years. Inherently most of Spain (and Europe) would adapt to the Roman way of life. Rome would give “Hispania” entertainments like Gladiators, Chariot races, and create theatres, roads, and aqueducts systems. Its influence would lend to languages spoken and religions practiced. This can all be seen in the city of Merida or “Augusta Emerita” as it was called during Rome’s rule. As it was one of the most important colonies in Hispania.

The amount of Roman ruins is unparalleled in Merida. The most breathtaking of which are the entertainment buildings, and specifically the Roman Theatre. This structure is almost completely intact, built by the consul of Merida in between 16 and 15 B.C. The consul also would build in 8 B.C. an Amphitheatre for gladiatorial sport and just a few years later a Roman Circus to hold chariot races. As I walked through these structures I became aware of the love of entertainment embraced by these Roman/Spanish communities. The scale of

these buildings is overwhelming. By far the smallest, the theatre could hold up to 6000 people, in comparison The Metropolitan Opera house holds 3,800. What also fascinated me was walking into the gladiator’s arena of the Amphitheatre. It gave me an immediate connection to bull fights that happen in Spain today. While I don’t know if bull fights stem from Roman times (it’s a subject for future blog) it is powerful to know that people have been fighting animals for entertainment in Spain for thousands of years. These buildings showed me that the people of Spain have been practicing professional entertainment of a grand scale for thousands of years. That my personal profession is as old as the rock I was standing on.

Merida is a town with Roman ruins or buildings on almost every corner. What would connect most of these buildings was the amount of art and mosaics at each site. The sure amount of art depicting gods, myths, or daily lives means several things. Art clearly was highly valued as it was on most structures. It also seemed that the works had different levels of skill as the most ornate pieces were on the largest villas, or on public works built to idealize the Roman way of life. The amount of works also means that artist and artisans were working a lot in Hispania. I don’t know if the artist had guilds in Hispania or if the works were imported from else were, but it showed that people living in Hispania were valuing art. At least as early as the Roman rule people of Spain were seeing and perhaps creating art.

Merida would showcase its Roman roots in an all out theatre festival. Since 1933 Merida has been using its glorious Roman theatre over the months of July and August to bring classic theatre to the masses. I am not sure why it happens in the middle of the hottest months of the year, but I would venture to guess it has something to do with JULIus and AUGUSTus (I am still getting over a sunburn). The Festival would demonstrate not only the amazing use of the Roman theatre, but also the citizens overwhelming excitement to create and appreciate art. In this rather small city which is not the easiest to get to (closest airports being Seville 100 miles away) some of the greatest theatre professionals came to work on this epic stage. Also the audience was packed, there must have been three thousand people sitting on hard stone to take in an epic Greek tale for two hours from 11:00pm to 1:00am. For a theatre nerd I understood why I was there, but the other 2,999? It could be the appreciation of ancestral roots and a culture that indulges in the arts. I also think it was because this stage demands the greatest efforts of the performers, and the audience knows this. The audiences wants to see its best in such an epic space. Every stage demands the best, but this space with its grand scale and overwhelming history is only effective if used with great care. It would swallow alive anyone who walked on without knowing what to do.

The city of Merida gave me an understanding of one of the most interesting influences on Spanish society the Roman Empire. These Romans brought with them to Spain a culture that liked entertainment and art. It gave the communities it conquered there practices and apprecitions. To look at a building and a date, and know that theatre practices have been occurring for thousands of years on the Iberian Peninsula is thrilling. While Rome is not the first group to come to Spain or the last it certainly had a hand in this county’s appreciation and creation of art.

..

PS

 I have to say that I am not a history major or an art major. I also do not pretend to be an expert on Spanish or European history. My knowledge of history is mainly American which is a country about as old as some small trees in Spain. I have spent two weeks in this very complicated country. Therefore my observations are that of outsider looking at big brush strokes to piece together this very interesting culture. For the entirety of my time spent in Spain I will be looking for historical reference to support my observations. I will grow with more understanding and knowledge, and I also don’t want to assume that you have any knowledge of Spain because before two weeks ago I had virtually none.

It was so cool seeing that stage played for an audience, and it was surreal to see Antigone by Sophocles a Greek play on a Roman Stage performed in Spanish with modern lighting and sound from 21st century - crazy. Oh, and it is clearly a Roman theatre compared to Helenistic and Greek theatre. I think it could have had a three tiered facade (only two remain), and very small chorus area with a very tall and wide stage (take that “B” in World Theatre I). The Jamon is really good in Merida!!! I am having a blast!!! Next week real pictures.

Kevin

Jardin De Arte

Barcelona:

Capital of Catalonia

Far Eastern city in the north part of Spain, a Costal town on the Mediterranean

Population: 1.62 million with roughly 6.2 million visitors a year.

Speaks Catalan and Spanish

Catalonia is roughly the size of the state of Maryland.

Barcelona is Spain’s second largest city after Madrid.

To go to Barcelona is to experience a European city of cultural wealth, and historical and political importance. It’s a city for the world, and I only spent four days exploring it. Anything that I will say about the city can only be skin deep. But Barcelona allowed me to begin scratching the surface of the political, historical, and cultural environment of Spain. What I will really take away form this first trip to Barcelona was the importance of art and creativity in the city, and how Barcelona cultivates artists.

During my four days I would be captivated by Gaudi’s work. I visited three of his sights La Sagrada Familla, La Pedrera, and Park Guell and I also took in the facade of Casa Batllo. There are even more works by Gaudi scattered around Barcelona and his modernista contemporaries that give Barcelona a motif of inspiration. The structures of Gaudi inspire thought and wonder even if you hate them. They are not paintings behind museum walls that need explanation, they are buildings that people live in, stroll in, or worship in . Structures that anyone can enjoy, but they are fantastical.

My first day, I walked into the hall of Guidi’s La Sagrada Familla, and my life is now different. It filled my mind with memories of my first trip to New York when I was 14. I was changed by the grandeur of Grand Central Station’s Main Concourse. It might sound silly, but as a country boy I had not seen anything like it. Its ceiling still fills me with wonder and hope today. These kinds of experiences, of seeing master works by artist, artisans, or architects are experiences reminiscent of the first time one sees the ocean. An experience where you forget yourself and all you can do is bask in all the wonders of the world. It makes me smile a smile that will never leave me.

It is not surprising to discover that other master artists lived and created in such an inspirational enviorment. I would visit several museums while I was there notably the Muesu Picasso, Museu Nacional d’art de Catalunya, and the Fudacio Joan Miro. What I would take from theses experiences was not only seeing master works, but also how Barcelona appreciates artist. It strives to cultivate their work by showcasing them in institutions that display almost entirely works from Catalonian artist, or pieces produced in Catalina. In Barcelona you have a city that boost its wonderful inspiring works, and promotes the creative impulses of its citizens. It creates a wonderful dichotomy of bring people to art that creates new art from within.

These observations would prove interesting when I would see two plays on my stay in Barcelona. The theatre season does not get in full swing till September when Spaniards return from Holiday. August it seemed is a time for new theatre works to be produced. Both shows were in small black box theatres, but they were packed with locals of all ages. These shows featured Catalan artist, and one was in Catalan the other was mainly music driven. What I was stunned by besides the packed houses, was the publicity. Each show had ads in the metro stations and around town. I got affordable tickets using the Catalan cultural center. It was simple and professional. It made going to the theatre a easy and invigoration activity. These new artist had a captive audience to appreciate there efforts

In four day I simply became familiar with a very large and complicated city, but it showed me art is very much in the conscious of Catalan culture. Barcelona creates an environment to easily access art making it accessible to the masses. Anyone can venture into one of the many museums, or walk by one of Guadi's master works. This attitude brings life to the city, and keeps people coming back. I believe this ultimately leads to economic growth and social development. I hope to do more research if government or private funding plays a role in the art development in Catatlan. I also have to make a return trip to see La Sagrada Famila before I Leave Spain.  

PS I will have my own pictures later my camera broken (whap whap)

Yo Soy De los Estados Unidos

I am of America. My socialization (morals and norms) that shapes who I am, and what I do is distinctly American. The society, family, friends, and educations, all that I know, has been in America. I grew up in a nice country community outside Atlanta. This little country society gave me my love when I was in the 5^th grade. I performed for the very first time a poem by Henry Wadsworth Longfellow, and from that moment on I was hooked on theatre. As I grew older theater became an obsession, and led me to moving to America's largest city New York. I learned American acting technique. Went to American schools, and studied with mainly American professors. Yet, New York is a city for the world, and there I met people, ate food, and saw art from every corner of the globe. America and New York has given me one of one of humanities oldest art forms and one of my strongest loves the American Theatre. Now I have left the northern continent for Spain in search for more understanding. I want to learn more about another society’s theatrical practices & culture. So I can work on my craft with deeper understanding, and to learn about myself.

For the month of August I will travel to several cities and towns to experience festivals, art, theatre, and food. I hope to discover how people interact with art and culture in Spain. I will try to find historical backgrounds, and look for cultural links. For example a festival called La Tomatina in Bunol happens every year in August.  Participants throw tomatoes at each other for an hour or so. When did it begin? Which of Spain’s society created it?  Who is participating? Is it theatrical? Is it celebrating the harvest, is it pagan in origin or catholic, or do they just have too many tomatoes? Questions like these may give me understanding into to a culture that is one of the oldest in the world.

For September onward I will work at Teatro Tyl Tyl a children’s theatre outside of Madrid in Navalcarnero. The blog will then focus on the practices and creation of art here in Spain. It will also look at the culture of Madrid, and I will be doing some reviews of play and theatrical events.

To keep you up to date I Just returned late today from a week spent in the lovely Port City of Barcelona. Tomorrow I will post a blog about what I found.