Roma

Merida:

A river city in the far western part of Spain.

It is the capital of the Extremadura community

Population of 56,000

Speaks Castilian

Extremadura has an area roughly 41,600 square km or just bigger than Maryland and Delaware combined (Maryland the 42^nd largest state and Delaware the 49^th respectivly)

Its High while I was there - 41 degrees Celsius (105 F) and I have the sun burn to prove it

For the Record:

Spain has an area of 195,364 square miles which puts it between California and Texas our 3^rd and 2^nd largest states. Its population is about 46,000,000 as our California has about 37,000,000 people. Castilian is another name for the Spanish language, and Spain is located on the Iberian Peninsula the farthest stretch West on the European continent. Also at this point I have traveled 2184 km (1360 miles) back and forth from Madrid.

History will often give great incite into the societal norms and traditional practices of a society. In my second week in Spain I have explored the ancient city of Merida. This city is stooped in history of one of the most influetal societys that has defined the Iberian Peninsula. The structural and cultural remains of this group paints a complicated and exciting story that speaks of the Spain that I am visiting today.

The classical theatre festival in Merida would give me not only a look a

t some of the finest theatre performers in Spain, but also a real look at the lives of one of Spain’s first conquerors - Rome. The Romans ruled what is now modern day Spain and Portugal for almost 600 years. Inherently most of Spain (and Europe) would adapt to the Roman way of life. Rome would give “Hispania” entertainments like Gladiators, Chariot races, and create theatres, roads, and aqueducts systems. Its influence would lend to languages spoken and religions practiced. This can all be seen in the city of Merida or “Augusta Emerita” as it was called during Rome’s rule. As it was one of the most important colonies in Hispania.

The amount of Roman ruins is unparalleled in Merida. The most breathtaking of which are the entertainment buildings, and specifically the Roman Theatre. This structure is almost completely intact, built by the consul of Merida in between 16 and 15 B.C. The consul also would build in 8 B.C. an Amphitheatre for gladiatorial sport and just a few years later a Roman Circus to hold chariot races. As I walked through these structures I became aware of the love of entertainment embraced by these Roman/Spanish communities. The scale of

these buildings is overwhelming. By far the smallest, the theatre could hold up to 6000 people, in comparison The Metropolitan Opera house holds 3,800. What also fascinated me was walking into the gladiator’s arena of the Amphitheatre. It gave me an immediate connection to bull fights that happen in Spain today. While I don’t know if bull fights stem from Roman times (it’s a subject for future blog) it is powerful to know that people have been fighting animals for entertainment in Spain for thousands of years. These buildings showed me that the people of Spain have been practicing professional entertainment of a grand scale for thousands of years. That my personal profession is as old as the rock I was standing on.

Merida is a town with Roman ruins or buildings on almost every corner. What would connect most of these buildings was the amount of art and mosaics at each site. The sure amount of art depicting gods, myths, or daily lives means several things. Art clearly was highly valued as it was on most structures. It also seemed that the works had different levels of skill as the most ornate pieces were on the largest villas, or on public works built to idealize the Roman way of life. The amount of works also means that artist and artisans were working a lot in Hispania. I don’t know if the artist had guilds in Hispania or if the works were imported from else were, but it showed that people living in Hispania were valuing art. At least as early as the Roman rule people of Spain were seeing and perhaps creating art.

Merida would showcase its Roman roots in an all out theatre festival. Since 1933 Merida has been using its glorious Roman theatre over the months of July and August to bring classic theatre to the masses. I am not sure why it happens in the middle of the hottest months of the year, but I would venture to guess it has something to do with JULIus and AUGUSTus (I am still getting over a sunburn). The Festival would demonstrate not only the amazing use of the Roman theatre, but also the citizens overwhelming excitement to create and appreciate art. In this rather small city which is not the easiest to get to (closest airports being Seville 100 miles away) some of the greatest theatre professionals came to work on this epic stage. Also the audience was packed, there must have been three thousand people sitting on hard stone to take in an epic Greek tale for two hours from 11:00pm to 1:00am. For a theatre nerd I understood why I was there, but the other 2,999? It could be the appreciation of ancestral roots and a culture that indulges in the arts. I also think it was because this stage demands the greatest efforts of the performers, and the audience knows this. The audiences wants to see its best in such an epic space. Every stage demands the best, but this space with its grand scale and overwhelming history is only effective if used with great care. It would swallow alive anyone who walked on without knowing what to do.

The city of Merida gave me an understanding of one of the most interesting influences on Spanish society the Roman Empire. These Romans brought with them to Spain a culture that liked entertainment and art. It gave the communities it conquered there practices and apprecitions. To look at a building and a date, and know that theatre practices have been occurring for thousands of years on the Iberian Peninsula is thrilling. While Rome is not the first group to come to Spain or the last it certainly had a hand in this county’s appreciation and creation of art.

..

PS

 I have to say that I am not a history major or an art major. I also do not pretend to be an expert on Spanish or European history. My knowledge of history is mainly American which is a country about as old as some small trees in Spain. I have spent two weeks in this very complicated country. Therefore my observations are that of outsider looking at big brush strokes to piece together this very interesting culture. For the entirety of my time spent in Spain I will be looking for historical reference to support my observations. I will grow with more understanding and knowledge, and I also don’t want to assume that you have any knowledge of Spain because before two weeks ago I had virtually none.

It was so cool seeing that stage played for an audience, and it was surreal to see Antigone by Sophocles a Greek play on a Roman Stage performed in Spanish with modern lighting and sound from 21st century - crazy. Oh, and it is clearly a Roman theatre compared to Helenistic and Greek theatre. I think it could have had a three tiered facade (only two remain), and very small chorus area with a very tall and wide stage (take that “B” in World Theatre I). The Jamon is really good in Merida!!! I am having a blast!!! Next week real pictures.

Kevin